![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
![]() |
Register | FAQ | Members List | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | ![]() |
|
|||
|
I just finished adjusting my clutch and had a bitch of a time getting the locknut loosened off of the adjusting screw on the clutch. The locknut needs a 17 mil socket/wrench and you have to hold the adjusting screw with a 7/32 Allen wrench. Since I didn't have a 17 mil wrench with a large enough offset I took an old Johnson bar and board a 1/4" hole thru it so that I could get the Allen wrench thru it and the socket to hold the adjuster to break it free.
Any easier ways for next time??? |
|
|||
|
Thanks
The 17 mil fit better then the 11/16, and I have a breaker bar but the issue was that it was so tight it would just turn the clutch when I reefed on it. Thats why I ran a drill bit through my bar to catch the adjuster screw with the Allen wrench. I don't think it has been touched at the dealer, so maybe next time she will come loose easier. It worked well to tighten the locknut back down to keep the adjuster in place . It would be nice to replace the lock nut with a longer/deeper nut so you could put a wrench on it from outside the inspection opening. When it stops snowing here I will wade out to the shop and take a picture of what I used. |
|
|||
|
BP on those stubborn nuts I give it a sharp rap w/ a no harm hammer on the breaker bar at the point the clutch quits turning by hand. I also do the same on locking down the nut. Just make sure the socket is well positioned on the nut (not cocked) as they are softer metal than you would think.. :wink:
Curley
__________________
Curley
|
|
|||
|
Quote:
Thanks for the advice. |
|
|||
|
Pictures of tools I used to do the adjustments. As I said i used a 17 mil. deep socket with a 7/32 Allen key in a socket. Worked very well to loosen the lock nut as well to hold the adjuster while locking it back down.
|
|
|||
|
Quote:
Curley
__________________
Curley
|
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|